Kaleidoscope, Atlanta GA

Proclaiming anybody’s burger as the best in a burger-packed powerhouse of a city like Atlanta seems like asking for trouble. Longtime readers might recall that I have considered The Vortex to be Atlanta’s best burger joint among a whole mess of very strong contenders. Our neighborhood burger restaurant, Cheeseburger Bobby’s, is the one we visit the most often, as they serve up a super product at a great price with just about the best staff of any restaurant in town. Also, they are one traffic light away from us. Sometimes, that means a lot. Anyway, if we do end up moving to North Carolina in two years, we’ll probably have to come back a lot for burgers, especially since I understand that state law doesn’t allow restaurants many cooking options for ground beef, limiting the juiciness potential. Well, I guess that the Cook Out chain is about on the same level of quality as Bobby’s. Wish that they had indoor seating, though.

In the late summer, I ran across Serious Eats’ blog A Hamburger Today and, once I started paying attention to it, I saw that a local writer named Todd Brock has been spreading the good word about Atlanta’s offerings. Back in February, he gave a major thumbs-up to Kaleidoscope, a “gastropub” in Brookhaven in a new development on Dresden Drive just a little ways below the MARTA station. Their burger won out as the Judges’ Choice over twenty competitors in the city’s October 2010 Battle of the Burgers, with the restaurant a good two months away from opening.

I figured this required a little investigation. I wasn’t disappointed.

It was a good day to start with, as Georgia didn’t just beat Auburn, we took the Tigers out behind the woodshed and administered a whipping the likes of which nobody will forget. Time had eroded my memory of how fun it is to try rocking a toddler to sleep while whooping and hollering and bellowing bits of our fight song. Suffice it to say that I was enjoying the afternoon a little more than the baby was.

We met our friends Victoria and James for supper and, while we waited for the burger, we shared baby stories and baby stories and more baby stories. We also shared a little order of roasted cashews tossed with a spicy Thai chili powder, and that was quite lovely.

Now, one thing that I’ll disagree with Brock about is the dollar that he spent getting a side of duck confit and bacon mayo for his fries. It wasn’t bad, but I’ve spent a lot better dollars myself. Where he’s not wrong is calling this absolutely worth adding to the discussion about the best burgers in town. It’s amazing. I honestly don’t know that I’ve had one better in this burger-happy city. Two patties, pimento cheese, slaw, chow chow, bread and butter pickles, and just absolutely perfect. The owner and executive chef, Joey Riley, used to be head chef at Buckhead Diner and Goldfish, among other places. Fellow knows what he’s doing.

I don’t know what to add. When the argument has been settled so effectively, there’s really not a lot else to say. So we’ll leave it there… but in the next chapter, Marie goes to Athens and finds another contender.

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