Havana Comida Latina, Asheville NC (CLOSED)

At the end of July, Marie and I made our first overnight trip without the baby. We made our annual trek to Asheville for Bele Chere, a festival of music, artwork, street performers and overindulgence. This was our third trip and we’re already looking forward to next year’s Bele Chere, in part because our visit didn’t allow us time to see the acts that we most would have enjoyed this time around. Last year, the act that I most wanted to see – Grace Potter and the Nocturnals – was scheduled for Saturday night and we only booked a room for Friday. This year, it was the other way around and we missed The Whigs on Friday night, darn it. Continue reading “Havana Comida Latina, Asheville NC (CLOSED)”

Frankie & Johnny’s, Atlanta GA (CLOSED)

Here’s an incredibly interesting restaurant. It’s not worth knocking over anybody to have breakfast here – in fact, if you go looking for good grits, it’s not worth visiting at all – but I swear, this place fell through a crack in time. It looks and feels like a place with no relationship whatsoever to the modern world. Social media? Twitter updates? Not this place. Nobody talks about it, least of all on that “internet” thing. Don’t believe me? Google it. You’ll see an Urbanspoon listing with votes from eight people, and me over at Roadfood.com asking whether anybody knew anything about it, and a bunch of Yellow Pages and Yelp listings with no user reviews at all.

The parking lot does to your car’s alignment only slightly less damage than falling off a cliff. The sign – a beautiful, rusted anachronism – has fallen apart and is no more. This weird, vintage thing is what caught my eye the first time that I drove past it. A little more than a year ago, I stopped by and photographed the sign just for my own sake. Had I known then that the silly picture of the nice young couple in the roadster was going to fall out and crash into the potholes beneath it, I would have taken more care not to capture part of a Taco Bell billboard behind it. Well, I never claimed to be a good photographer.

Inside, it is as quiet as the grave. It is a classic roadfood stop for truckers and utility company drivers. It’s where you can go to get a cheap, enormous breakfast. I had bacon – fantastic bacon – eggs, grits and toast for four bucks. Well, the grits weren’t worth eating. That bacon was amazing.

From 10:30 until 2, they serve lunch in a buffet line. Looks like they offer lasagna, meat loaf and the like, with all the trimmings. Then at two, this place shuts down and returns to the other side of 1967, to decay and rust and rot away further. It’s the most authentic – if that word means anything right now – breakfast experience I’ve had lately. I can imagine my late father eating here four times a week for years and never mentioning it to anybody, because it wouldn’t occur to him to do so. It is what it is, and does not aspire to more. But this isn’t destination food. The young crowd that “rediscovered” Pabst Blue Ribbon has not found this yet. This is for local workers, men who do not mind destroying the alignments of their company’s trucks.

I asked about it. I learned nothing. The owner, an older Asian man, said that he’d been open for seven years. I said that the business must be much older. He agreed. I suggested that the building must have been there a long time. He said that it had. I asked him what happened to his sign. He said the sign was still there. I laughed and said that once, there had been a picture in the middle, where there is only a hole now. Not laughing, he agreed that yes, once, there had been. And then he went to work setting up the lunch buffet.

I left, and time didn’t march on. It froze.

(Update, 7/25/12: Eleven months later, it was gone. Without a word or a peep or a notice anywhere, the building and the parking lot were completely gone. Logic tells us this happened after a bulldozer and a wrecking crew came in. I prefer to think it was because time folded over like a tesseract, and, just like that, the building left through a crack in time, back to where it came from, as though it had never met our troubled days.)

Mix, Birmingham AL (CLOSED)

Over the course of the next several days, we’ll be telling you about the fun trip that we took to Starkville, Mississippi, to visit Marie’s brother and sister. Karl moved there after serving a few tours in the army, and Anne, as readers who were with us last year, lives in Memphis. We had a terrific little trip, taking the baby out of state for the first time. Starkville is five hours’ drive from our place, not including the stop in Birmingham for breakfast, and once we got to Karl’s place, and visited for a little bit, he and I got back on the road to go pick up Anne, and get some barbecue. Continue reading “Mix, Birmingham AL (CLOSED)”

Jot Em Down Store & BBQ, Athens GA (CLOSED)

This is Marie, contributing an entry about Jot Em Down, a BBQ place I have a particular fondness for more for sentimental reasons than anything else. My most recent visit to Athens was a mom’s day out with friends, and the baby and I made a trip without Grant. I decided to eat at a place that used to be fairly frequently in rotation when Grant used to come up to Athens on the weekends. I had meant to go with him when I collected the place for the blog, but we have so many new places to try out and I am the one who likes to revisit old haunts, so this trip seemed the most sensible opportunity. Continue reading “Jot Em Down Store & BBQ, Athens GA (CLOSED)”

Looking Back at Barbecue Long Gone

A heck of a lot of barbecue places have closed in the last decade. That’s the findings from an informal, anecdotal study performed by myself with no scientific input whatsoever, but it’s glumly inescapable.

I have mentioned before that, once upon a time, I maintained an unattractive, poorly-written Geocities page about Georgia barbecue restaurants. Curious as to whether we were close to approaching the number of shacks and joints on that list, I pulled up an old copy of it and counted them. I had 65 on the page, including a couple which only the hellbent and determined among completists would have considered visiting. Also, the goal of that page had been to document everything that I could find, good or bad, and the current blog is principally built around good meals, and not disappointments. Some of those 65 restaurants wouldn’t merit a mention here.

Then I started counting down the casualties. A full third of the restaurants on that list – 22 – had shuttered. I started doing it in, I think, 2000 and stopped in early 2003. Some of the earlier closings were reflected in updates, but many others have closed since then. Here are the restaurants that I visited since lost to time:

Benny’s, Atlanta: This was a place in that restaurant-packed strip mall where Johnson Ferry and Ashford-Dunwoody meet, and the owners insisted theirs was the best Brunswick stew in the city while yelling orders back and forth. “HOT, MILD OR MIX,” they would bellow at you. I loved this noisy, raucous place, and was sorry to learn that it closed.

Blackstock’s BBQ Barn, Lawrenceville: One of the state’s longest-running restaurants, this place was open from the mid-1920s to 2008, when the owner passed away. I think you got more history here than great food, but I remember enjoying the visit.

Bucky’s, Marietta: This place was on Sandy Plains in that Publix strip mall in the space where a Laredo is now, which was too large for them, and they literally closed within a month of me moving to this side of town. I tried not to be offended.

Bulluck’s Eastern North Carolina Styled BBQ, Norcross: I remember being really disappointed in this place, back before I learned the differences in how pork is prepared in various regions, thinking, wrongly and naively, that it was all about the sauce. They seem to have evolved into a catering-only business before evaporating, never giving me the chance to correct my mistake.

Bunk House, Crawford: This was a place that I always drove past between Athens and the mighty Paul’s BBQ in Lexington. I finally decided to stop in, and concluded I’d have been better off driving the eight or so miles on to Paul’s. They shuttered in 2001 or so.

Carither’s, Athens: Man, I miss this place! They were terrific, with awesome hash, and hot sauce that was like rocket fuel but somehow still brought out the flavor of the pork. I even liked this place for the way they’d throw your styrofoam plate of food in the microwave for ten seconds before serving it to you, which should not have worked at all, and they had the best sweet tea in the world, bar none. They closed in late 2006 or 2007.

Champ’s Real Pit Bar-B-Q, Smyrna: Located on South Cobb Drive about one traffic light away from the popular and long-lasting Old South, Champ’s has been closed for years but the building’s still for sale. Cobb County cops often meet in the parking lot. They served pretty good sliced pork and their TVs were always tuned to CMT and cranked to ear-splitting volume.

Corky’s, chain: A Memphis-based franchise that had a pricy plate of corporate slop. There were one or maybe two stores in the area. I tried it once in Duluth and thought it even worse than Sonny’s.

Dusty’s, Atlanta: I miss this place a lot, too, and lots of others feel the same. I remember being unimpressed on my first visit, but gave them another chance and concluded they were just off that one time. Great meat and excellent sides… oooh, that corn was so darn good.

Ed’s Mesquite BBQ, Alpharetta: This fellow had his sign up for what seemed like more than a year, but when the business finally opened, it only lasted about eight months. Quite the opposite of Dusty’s here, as subsequent visits showed the quality of everything from the food to the servers deteriorating with each passing week.

Famous Dave’s, chain: This national chain had at least three locations in the metro Atlanta area, but they pulled up stakes and moved a couple of years ago. I always thought they were easily the best barbecue chain, as chains go. They still have plenty of stores in other markets, including Nashville.

J.B.’s, Athens: I had a pretty good meal here once, enlivened by the wonderful staff. The building once housed Walter’s BBQ in the 1980s – R.E.M. were memorably photographed here by Laura Levine and wrote a B-side for the place – and was briefly the home of another, Hollis Ribs, which sadly closed in the summer of 2011. As of the fall, it was the home of a hot dog and sausage joint. Here is one of Ms. Levine’s iconic photos of R.E.M.

Kennesaw BBQ House, Kennesaw: I only ate here once and thought it was pretty good. Apparently it had been around a while, but vanished around 2004 or so.*

One Star Ranch, Alpharetta: There used to be three Rib Ranches around town. This one became One Star in the late ’90s and served up pretty good Texas-styled barbecue until it shut down in 2010.

Pavlov’s Pit, Tybee Island: When you drove onto the island, this place was almost immediately on your left, I think. They had a really good mustard sauce. Gone for years, evidently.

Raleigh’s BBQ & Blues, Decatur: This place had, hands down, the best roasted corn that I’ve ever tasted, and the pork was pretty good, too. They were around the corner from Eddie’s Attic and didn’t last very long.

Red’s Backwoods BBQ, chain: I think that there were only a couple of these in Gwinnett and Hall County. It was pretty corporate, but small, and I really liked the sauces. It would appear that there is still a single restaurant left, down in Boca Raton, Florida.

Rocking Hog, Alpharetta: I’m not sure what’s in this location (Kimball/Abbots Bridge and Jones Bridge) these days; it is one of those cursed spots where nothing lasts for more than a few months. In 2002, this was a big family-friendly corporate-looking place with some excellent barbecue, far too big for the crowd. We ate here several times before they shut down and had a great meal every time, but they only lasted about half a year.

Rockin’ Rob’s, Decatur: This was the previous incarnation of what is presently Maddy’s, a very good place that I should revisit soon. I think one of their owners might have left, or something. Like I say, this isn’t really scientific. On that note, it’s perhaps surprising just how few of the very popular and trendy ITP BBQ joints that I actually end up visiting. I’ve only been to Fox Brothers once – loved it – but haven’t tried Community Q or DBA like everybody else seems to. I should probably rectify that one day. Anyway, before it was Rockin’ Rob’s, it was a kosher BBQ place that I, snobbishly and stupidly, never visited because I was a young punk who insisted that barbecue was pork and pork was barbecue and I had no interest in trying anybody’s beef or chicken. Idiot. Before it was that place, it was an Old Hickory House. That’s at least four barbecue restaurants in the same place going back forty years or so, which is pretty impressive in its own weird way.

Springhouse, Athens/Winder: I’ll never forget this place’s hideous little mascot, a frightening half-pig half-chicken beast. I never knew what the heck these guys were thinking, designing such an ugly critter. Anyway, they were in Athens for years and they moved to Winder for a while before returning to Athens and closing. I think I only ate there when they were in Winder and wasn’t really impressed much.

Texas BBQ, Marietta: This was on Delk Road just west of I-75 and didn’t last very long. I seem to remember that they had a somewhat impractical two-story dining room and that the fellow at the counter took the unusual step of telling me that I would enjoy the chopped beef more than the pork, and I should order it instead.

US BBQ & Grill, Atlanta: Of this place, not even the building exists anymore. It was where that Piedmont Hospital-affiliated medical building on Howell Mill Road right at I-75 now stands. Once upon a time it had been a Copper Kettle – remember those? – but for its last three or so years, it was this very good little barbecue place which served up at very low prices. I ate here a lot, got out of the habit, and before I knew it, the property had been razed at the same time that the old Castlegate Inn property was sold to become that huge development across the street.

Do you remember any of these restaurants? Can you recall any other Georgia barbecue places that are no longer with us? Share in the comments if you would like.

*(11/11/11) I learned today that the Kennesaw store was an outpost of Fred’s Bar-B-Que House of Lithia Springs, which is still going strong and commanding ridiculously big lunch crowds. The Kennesaw location indeed shuttered in April, 2004. More on this when I write up my visit to Fred’s a little later in the month.

Joe’s Mexicana Grill, Austell GA (CLOSED)

A couple of Saturdays back, I had one of those fluid days where everything kept changing based on traffic and other people’s plans. Marie had an excellent baby shower thrown for her by our friend Samantha, and some of our friends from Nashville came to attend. Later, David and I took our Nashville buddies out for a couple of hours shopping for records and for yarn, and while time didn’t afford us the chance to go enjoy a great dinner in Atlanta, we did, at least, stop by King of Pops at their usual location at North Avenue and North Highlands and have some awesome handcrafted snacks. Still no Arnold Palmer flavor for me – I’m optimistic that I’ll try it one of these days – but I can confirm that their orange basil is just about better than you could imagine.

Later in the evening, after our friends made their way back to Tennesee, David and I spent a little while trying to figure out what to eat around his place. We finally settled on Joe’s Mexicana Grill, which is a quite new place – it opened in March – on the East-West Connector in that same strip mall as the wonderful Miyako. A very good chicken place called Famous Yardbirds had briefly lived and died in the space now occupied by a package store. Joe’s itself seems, if memory holds, to be in the space where a Moe’s Southwestern Grill once was. This, in itself, was surprising. Despite the inescapable reality that you cannot spell “mediocre” without M-O-E, I didn’t think those darn places ever closed down.

Joe’s follows the same template as Moe’s and Willy’s and Hollie Guacamole! and the like. It’s assembly-line burritos, tacos and nachos, made with smiles on the other side of a sneeze guard. However, there are a pair of extras here that none of their competitors offer, which warrant commentary, even though I did not sample either. First, there’s the surprising and notable choice of artichoke as a primary ingredient. Somehow or another, I just plain misread this on the menu, said to myself that I’d rather have spicy chicken than what I thought was avocado, and when I left, stuffed from an enormous burrito bowl, I was kicking myself for not trying an artichoke taco. Further investigation is required here.

The other thing they have is a really impressive dessert counter. Their competitors work under the assumption that all anybody ever wants for dessert after a burrito is a chocolate chip cookie. Joe’s suggests that you might like a big slice of cheesecake or something exquisitely decadent. Again, I was too stuffed from a burrito bowl and some chips to even have a taco, much less a slab of chocolate cake this large, but it sure did do my eyes a favor to look at what was on offer.

Joe’s might not be destination dining, and its unfortunate interior design doesn’t really lend itself to quiet evenings out. With very high ceilings and piping and ventilation above, the sound is terrible and loud here. One television was on Nickelodeon and one was on Faux News and we couldn’t make out a word from either. Sounds just turn into howling noise here; TVs should be shut off and lower ceiling tiles installed. But for its neighborhood, it’s a pretty good addition, and the quality of the food is infinitely preferable to Moe’s.

And for those of you who noted with sadness my inability to land an Arnold Palmer-flavored pop earlier in the afternoon, you can breathe a sigh of relief that I mixed myself one to drink with my burrito. It probably wasn’t as good as a frozen popsicle on a nice spring afternoon, but it was still pretty good.

(Update 7/12/12: Unfortunately, Joe’s closed earlier this month. I never did try one of those artichoke tacos…!)

Bill’s Bar-B-Q, Hull GA

I have totally done Bill’s an awful disservice. I ate there once, maybe twice, back in 1993 or 1994, and I decided that I liked other, nearby, places better. It’s about a fifteen or twenty minute drive from Athens, depending whereabouts you are, north of the town of Hull and south of the somewhat larger town of Danielsville. This past Saturday, I decided it was long overdue for a return trip. Continue reading “Bill’s Bar-B-Q, Hull GA”