Chicken and the Egg and Canvas, Marietta GA

A couple of weeks ago, I indulged and treated myself to two lunches out at places new to me. One has recently opened and one has been around for a few years. I picked Chicken and the Egg, a new restaurant in a huge space in a strip mall on Whitlock, based on several glowing reports. Amy on Food has been there twice and has been quite complimentary. It’s a farm-to-table place where the owners and chefs are striving for sustainability and a sensible approach to fresh eating. Continue reading “Chicken and the Egg and Canvas, Marietta GA” →

Kaleidoscope, Atlanta GA

Proclaiming anybody’s burger as the best in a burger-packed powerhouse of a city like Atlanta seems like asking for trouble. Longtime readers might recall that I have considered The Vortex to be Atlanta’s best burger joint among a whole mess of very strong contenders. Our neighborhood burger restaurant, Cheeseburger Bobby’s, is the one we visit the most often, as they serve up a super product at a great price with just about the best staff of any restaurant in town. Also, they are one traffic light away from us. Sometimes, that means a lot. Anyway, if we do end up moving to North Carolina in two years, we’ll probably have to come back a lot for burgers, especially since I understand that state law doesn’t allow restaurants many cooking options for ground beef, limiting the juiciness potential. Well, I guess that the Cook Out chain is about on the same level of quality as Bobby’s. Wish that they had indoor seating, though.

In the late summer, I ran across Serious Eats’ blog A Hamburger Today and, once I started paying attention to it, I saw that a local writer named Todd Brock has been spreading the good word about Atlanta’s offerings. Back in February, he gave a major thumbs-up to Kaleidoscope, a “gastropub” in Brookhaven in a new development on Dresden Drive just a little ways below the MARTA station. Their burger won out as the Judges’ Choice over twenty competitors in the city’s October 2010 Battle of the Burgers, with the restaurant a good two months away from opening.

I figured this required a little investigation. I wasn’t disappointed.

It was a good day to start with, as Georgia didn’t just beat Auburn, we took the Tigers out behind the woodshed and administered a whipping the likes of which nobody will forget. Time had eroded my memory of how fun it is to try rocking a toddler to sleep while whooping and hollering and bellowing bits of our fight song. Suffice it to say that I was enjoying the afternoon a little more than the baby was.

We met our friends Victoria and James for supper and, while we waited for the burger, we shared baby stories and baby stories and more baby stories. We also shared a little order of roasted cashews tossed with a spicy Thai chili powder, and that was quite lovely.

Now, one thing that I’ll disagree with Brock about is the dollar that he spent getting a side of duck confit and bacon mayo for his fries. It wasn’t bad, but I’ve spent a lot better dollars myself. Where he’s not wrong is calling this absolutely worth adding to the discussion about the best burgers in town. It’s amazing. I honestly don’t know that I’ve had one better in this burger-happy city. Two patties, pimento cheese, slaw, chow chow, bread and butter pickles, and just absolutely perfect. The owner and executive chef, Joey Riley, used to be head chef at Buckhead Diner and Goldfish, among other places. Fellow knows what he’s doing.

I don’t know what to add. When the argument has been settled so effectively, there’s really not a lot else to say. So we’ll leave it there… but in the next chapter, Marie goes to Athens and finds another contender.

One Eared Stag and Rosa’s Pizza, Atlanta GA

It took me a lot longer to get over to One Eared Stag than I would have liked. I was all set to head that way after an early shift a few Fridays back, when Marie texted me to say that she’d been in a minor fender bender. That started a chain of missed opportunities and changed plans that finally resolved towards the end of October when David and I made our way down to Edgewood Avenue to try them out.

The street looks like a sleepy little place during the daytime, but the silence is punctuated by the sound of MARTA trains and church bells. Since just about everybody’s talking about it – The Quick + Dirty Dirty named it her new favorite Atlanta restaurant, for example – I was expecting a much larger crowd than we found, but we had the place mostly to ourselves on a Thursday just before noon. It was nice enough to eat on the patio, and this really is a pleasant hideaway. The interior is designed in that bland, austere style common to many modern urban restaurants (and, apparently, little changed from when this space housed chef Robert Phalen’s previous venture, Shaun’s), but the patio, surrounded by the old brick of the buildings around it, is a lovely little oasis.

Despite the slow pace, our server is perhaps one of the busiest men in the city. He told us that he works three part-time jobs. I was reminded of a classic, Cam Kennedy-illustrated episode of Judge Dredd where somebody tried that in the 90% unemployment world of Mega-City One and went to jail for it. He cautioned David and I against ordering too many sides for our meals, as they were all pretty substantial. I thought I was splurging, as I couldn’t decide between the chickpea fries, great big thick monsters recommended by Atlanta Restaurant Blog, and the onion rings, which are completely delicious and among the best in the city. David added a pile of pork skins to the repast, served on a butcher’s block with a large pinch of sea salt and a little dipping jar of vinegar.

David’s crab roll sandwich was a sight to see. It comes on bread baked by Alon’s, split vertically so that it stands up, stuffed with the crab. Neal later said that it looked ridiculous. “Sandwiches should lie down and take their punishment,” he joked. My sandwich, an indulgent BLT with a fried egg, was indeed lying down waiting for me to slide the egg off onto a plate rather than risk the mess of melting yolk. The bacon was thick-cut and chewy, and the lettuce and tomato fresh and delicious. I briefly had menu envy over David’s cucumber and radish salad until I dug into my side of incredibly fresh greens with a light drizzle of a dressing. I’d like to think that made up a little for all the fried stuff in front of me.

We passed on dessert, as David had a mind to walk around Broad Street, and I figured that I might find something there to try. Broad Street is a curious and old little strip of mainly lunch-only restaurants, catering to downtown businessmen, GSU students and, lately, Occupy Wall Streeters. I almost went for a gelato, but I was taken by the line coming out of Rosa’s Pizza, and decided that a slice would be my dessert.

Interestingly, there are two different Rosa’s in the region. If I understand correctly, the one downtown, with a second location near me in Cobb County’s Lassiter district, is not affiliated with the Rosa’s in Johns Creek.

Anyway, this place offers New York-style by-the-slice pies. The pies are actually made ahead of time with sauce and cheese, and toppings added as guests file slowly past the oven, logjamming at the register, where a hilarious woman takes payment for orders. The staff is lovably sassy and fun. The fellow assembling toppings fruitlessly negotiated with the girl ahead of me to bring him back a beer from a neighborhood bottle shop, and she gave me some playful stink about ordering anchovies, turning her head as she held the offending box at arm’s length and yelping a Pythonesque “Wurrrrgh!”

I left the restaurant laughing. The pizza was not really anything special – my heart sank a little when I saw the premade pies awaiting reheating in the oven – but the lively and fun atmosphere had me eating it in a good mood.

Bloggers Invade the Buckhead Diner

A couple of weeks ago, Marie and I finally got to put some faces to some names and meet a few of our fellow hobbyists. We were invited to join a little gang called the Atlanta Food Bloggers Society – you’ve probably seen the little “plate” icon on the sidebar to your right by now – and the launch party for the group was held at the venerable Buckhead Diner, in conjunction with some new menu items that they have rolled out. Well, there is one face that we knew ahead of time; we’ve known Rebecca Mendelsohn of Atlanta Foodies, who organized this group, for a few months in our “civilian” identities before we realized that we were each bloggers. Also present that afternoon: Amy on Food, Atlanta Restaurant Blog, The Blissful Glutton, Fiddlehead Foraging and The Food and Me. All we needed was for me to pretend to be dead and everybody else could have played an awesome game of How To Host a Murder.

We met at the Diner, which I recall opening with great hoopla in 1987, because its owners, the Buckhead Life Group, wanted a chance to show off some of its new menu offerings from the new executive chef, Charles Schwab. I confess that I felt a moment’s pause about offering a “review” of the goodies that we tried, as just about every chapter that we’ve written here has been written from the perspective of us, anonymously, enjoying, and paying for, a good meal at someplace that we would like to share with our readers. I trust that our readers will understand that on this occasion, we were invited under the purview of a small social media event to greet the chef and representatives of Buckhead Life Group for a complementary presentation of the new concoctions on their menu, specifically to get the word out to our readers. I can’t, therefore, “review” the restaurant, whose sterling reputation has been speaking for itself since I was in high school anyway, as the experience was not at all like what regular diners will experience.

With that in mind, they started us off with some white truffle deviled eggs before giving us some pimento cheese-filled hush puppies that they termed “fritters.” I really lucked out here, as Marie’s nursing-mandated avoidance of dairy meant that I got her fritters. They then brought out “day boats” of ceviche, made from rotating recipes, served with plantain and sweet potato chips. The ceviche that we enjoyed included shrimp, calamari and small scallops. It was followed by a plate of spicy tempura shrimp, and that was followed by a pizza, made with a very thin crust and pesto sauce, then a Cobb salad, pecan-encrusted Maine cod, an entree of turkey jardiniere, and finally a renowned and decadent – I am definitely using that word far too frequently to describe desserts, but I mean it here – white chocolate banana cream pie.

The tempura rock shrimp was my personal favorite of the selections.

The Cobb salad, however, was possibly the consensus favorite of the group.

The turkey jardiniere is served underneath a salad of its own, with tomatoes, arugula, radishes and potatoes, with a lemon vinaigrette drizzle.

I’ll tell you honestly, there was not one thing that I disliked. They have put together a splendid menu – it is a pricey one, mind – of some incredibly tasty things, and if they did so knowing that any misstep could be magnified and communicated to readers who might (in my experience) blow things further out of proportion, then so be it. They didn’t make any missteps. Possibly the least interesting thing among the treats they provided was the pizza, but it was still exponentially superior to plenty of other pizzas in town.

I enjoyed the tempura shrimp best, followed by the turkey dish, and then probably the pimento cheese fritters. They really balanced the spice of the shrimp quite perfectly. It had a kick without lingering, but was the most pleasant possible kick. The turkey was utterly unlike the dry meat that I typically dislike. It was moist and juicy and exciting, and served with a splendid complement of veggies that I would never have guessed would go so well with it. These little paper-thin radishes, of all things, just went perfectly with it.

The Cobb salad seemed to be the overall favorite of the table, and I wouldn’t say that anybody was wrong for loving it. This has to have been one of the freshest salads that I’ve ever had; every vegetable tasted like it was picked that morning, with the avocado in particular just electrifyingly vibrant. The blue cheese – apparently Point Reyes blue rather than the Diner’s popular and famous Maytag blue – was probably my favorite thing in it, though. I could have had a heaping spoonful of that cheese.

We thanked our hosts at the Diner for showing off their treats and enjoyed sharing a little shop talk with each other. The Blissful Glutton, whose blog has sadly been a little dormant while she has been working as the editor of Eater Atlanta, has probably been doing this longer than anybody else in town, but she still has a lot of passion for good meals. That’s reassuring; we have all seen some good food blogs dry up and blow away as their writers lose interest. This was a very positive afternoon. We all have blogs that we enjoy reading, and restaurants that we love to visit, and everybody wanted to talk about engaging writers and good places to eat, without dwelling on the bad. I suppose, when a hobby remains as, sensibly, unorganized as ours, there’s really no opportunity for drama unless you just want to be a diva and call other people out for daring to disagree with you about a restaurant. Life’s just better, though, when you’re pleasant.

We touched on the curious alchemy of Urbanspoon rankings, a subject near and dear to my heart, what with so many restaurants that I’ve visited proving so colossally unpopular, unhip and uncool that I’d have to post about two thousand trips to Frankie & Johnny’s to have the same statistical impact as a single visit to Fogo de Chao. On that note, I have tried, without much success, to invite some other writers whose blogs that I enjoy to join Urbanspoon and start enjoying the benefits of the spoonback linking. It brings a good deal more traffic to our blog, and I enjoy seeing how my chief peers and I move up and down the rankings. Of course, many of these sites that I enjoy most – Buster’s BBQ Blog, Chopped Onion, Where’s the Best BBQ? – detail older roadfood and rural places, and not on the more intown trendy joints – like Buckhead Diner – that get you higher up the big city rankings, but it sure would be easier to follow good blogs like them were they in my Urbanspoon news feed.

Leslie, of The Food and Me, hoped that the rest of us might offer suggestions about prompting more comments from her readers. Short of going negative, we were all stumped, noting that pretty much the only time that any of us can reliably expect comments of any sort is when we tick off a restaurant’s owner. Or his sockpuppets. I think that we would all like more interaction with our readers, though. Sometimes, I wonder how Marie and I managed to pick up so darn many of you. Drop us a line once in a while; let us know how we’re doing. All of us!

The Black Cow and The Cannon, Columbus GA

So, finishing up our little jaunt down to Columbus, we returned from Phenix City with a late sack of lunch for Maggi, who felt much better after a little longer rest and recuperation. I’m sure seeing Auburn get routed in Death Valley helped on that front. (The Clemson Death Valley, that is, and not the LSU one, not that it matters overmuch who routs Auburn.) The four of us gossiped and caught up and let the baby show off his mighty lung power, and our hosts persuaded us to reconsider our dinner plans. Continue reading “The Black Cow and The Cannon, Columbus GA” →

The Terminal Brewhouse, Chattanooga TN

As I took a nice sip of the root beer at Chattanooga’s Terminal Brewhouse, I kind of had that feeling that I sometimes get that Marie would be a little envious of me once she knew what I was drinking. The thought had occurred to me that I could very well have enjoyed six or seven more pints of their oatmeal stout – it had been a bad week, I was in a lousy mood, and the stout was very, very good – but I decided to be sensible and just follow up the beer with a house-brewed soda. It was magical. Continue reading “The Terminal Brewhouse, Chattanooga TN” →

The Friendly Toast, Boston MA

(Honeymoon flashback: In July 2009, Marie and I took a road trip up to Montreal and back, enjoying some really terrific meals over our ten-day expedition. I’ve selected some of those great restaurants, and, once per month, we’ll tell you about them.)

In the last honeymoon flashback, I told you about the breakfast that we enjoyed on the fifth day of our trip, at Manchester’s Red Arrow Diner. After that, we buckled up and got back on I-93 and drove south to Boston, where our friends Mike and Prairie live. Technically, they live in Cambridge, and lent us a guest parking pass for our dashboard so that we could avoid the pretty crippling parking charges in this place.

You may have heard that driving in this city is something of a challenge. You may have also heard that I don’t much like driving in Toronto. I would rather drive blindfolded in Toronto than mess with Boston traffic again. Between poorly-marked streets, traffic circles, traffic triangles, and what Prairie explained to us as a general understanding in the city that there is always one more lane than is actually marked, I was a little “country mouse in the city”-ed by the town. Turn signals, in Boston, are for the weak. Prairie was good enough to set us up with a Charlie Card and directions to get our walking tour started, intending to meet up with her and Mike that evening. Actually, it’s okay that Boston is a driver’s nightmare, because the city has an awesome public transportation grid and is very pedestrian-friendly. We walked a few blocks through Cambridge to Harvard University, looked over the cool buildings and then did a little shopping.

There are two comic shops within a baseball’s throw of each other here. New England Comics was pretty darn good for what it was (principally mainstream stuff), but Million Year Picnic was the real revelation. I’ve heard of this store many times over the years and it didn’t disappoint – they have a fantastic collection of books from publishers across the spectrum. They carry 2000 AD, always a pleasure to see, and I found two books here that I didn’t even know that I wanted. Both of these shops are within one minute’s walk of the Harvard T station, so we took the subway across the river to city center and found our way to the visitor’s center, where the Freedom Trail tour starts. We walked the first mile-and-a-bit of the trail, enjoying several gorgeous historical buildings and sites. I was particularly intrigued by the cemetary where Paul Revere and John Hancock are buried, which is full of gorgeous old headstones with Puritan death-markings. There were lots of winged skulls in evidence, as opposed to the cherubic angels which would dominate cemetaries in time.

Eventually, the Freedom Trail brings you to Fanueil Hall, which was the old Boston merchant marketplace and which is now an indoor/outdoor mall. We got sandwiches from one of the shops in the food court – it didn’t look like a chain, anyway – and concluded that we probably couldn’t walk the next giant leg to get to the USS Constitution and back before 6 pm. Besides, our feet hurt. So we took a water taxi (after some map confusion as to where, exactly, it landed) across the harbor to see where Old Ironsides is docked, undergoing renovations.

The tour took a lot longer than planned, although it really was fascinating. Our feet were pretty darn sore by the time we got back to Fanueil Hall. There, the formerly-local singer Bleu was giving a well-received instore at Newbury Comics, which is less a comic shop than a CD/gift store. As a comic shop, it’s not bad, but seriously overshadowed by others in the city. Mike and Prairie are big fans of Bleu, so we found them, snapped some pictures, enjoyed his music and bought his latest album.

The rest of the evening was great fun. We walked over to the old Customs building, which is now a Marriott property, but they keep the historical interior up and open to the public, and then down to where they were parked. We drove back out to Somerville (which is a separate town, but feels just like another neighborhood since Boston is so agreeably filled-in) to visit Mike and Prairie’s favorite comic shop, Hub Comics. Knock me down if it isn’t just a hair better than MYP, in my opinion. Of course, I might be biased by their having one of the 2000 ADs that Diamond did not ship to us down here in Georgia, but it really is a terrific shop, with a whole pile of stuff. Regardless which of the two you prefer, Boston is certainly home to two of the five best shops in North America, I’d say. (But then, I’ve never visited Isotope… yet!)

For dinner, we went to Friendly Toast. Prairie and Mike offered the caveat that the original location, in Portsmouth NH, is even wilder and better, but what you get in Boston is pretty wonderful, too. The interior is just a museum of crazy found objects and pop culture detritus, and the food is great, too. Inside, it looks like a cross between Lynn’s Paradise Cafe in Louisville and The Grill in Athens.

The Friendly Toast was quite new to Boston when we visited – the restaurant had only been open for about three months – but it had a wonderful reputation already. The owner, Melissa Jasper, had been collecting all the fun and silly decorations for years, and well-wishers had much more to give her when word got out that she was starting a second location in Boston. Nevertheless, the launch was kept pretty quiet. Word only leaked about the second store’s opening in February, and they were up and running before the end of April.

Since then, Friendly Toast has been racking up awards. The Boston Phoenix, and several of its rivals, calls it the best breakfast in the city. Esquire and TV’s Good Morning America call it one of the best breakfasts in the nation. Everybody wants to sample their King Cake, which is a pancake made with bananas, chocolate chips, peanut butter syrup and bacon.

Bucking the trend, we were actually in the mood for supper, though I believe breakfasts here are available all day. We shared some cheese fries which were served with a strawberry habanero sauce – far better than the name might imply – and my burrito with corn salsa was gigantic and tasty. Of course, now that I have read some reviews and looked over their menu in more detail, it looks like I missed out on quite a lot. It might be a long time before we can justify going back to Boston, but I figure that I know for that next time.